Sunday 26 August 2012

30-31/3/2012 - Grapes and spokes

The next day me and Jack unbelievably followed through on our promise to each other to get an early start but suffered a slight set back immediately after.
We'd been recommended a bike rental place called “Mr Hugo's” and, as the public bus we were on wound its way further into what was unmistakably wine country, Jack spotted a sign with “Mr Hugo” written on it. Jumping off the bus, we wandered over to the place but found that the sign actually read “Owned by Mr Hugo”. Hmm... Gringo paranoia kicked in and we managed to convince ourselves that this place must be a fake trying to cash I on the real “Mr Hugo's” which couldn't possibly be located here. So off we went, walking for a good half an hour along the country roads, jumping on several more buses and asking a bunch of locals where the real Mr Hugo's was, before eventually someone wrote down an address for us and, surprise, surprise, we ended up at the very same “Owned by Mr Hugo” which we had assumed to be a fake a good hour ago. This is the idiocy that happens when 2 physicists put their sceptical hats on. In any case it was now getting on for midday and felt like a more appropriate time to start boozing/wine tasting.

The grin of a man who's cycling through wine country




Kitting ourselves out with bikes and a loose map of the area we set off in high spirits. Our first port of call was a fairly drab wine museum but we did get our first taste of a Malbec – the grape for which Argentina is most renowned for. After a stop at what I can only describe as a delicatessen where we lined our stomachs with various olive oils, chutneys, jams, dulce de leche's and a shot of absinthe, we hopped on our bikes and cycled through the midday heat to the furthest winery on our map. Our palates still untainted and our states still uninebriated, we decided to take a tour of the winery and actually try to, dare I say, learn something. This was going to be hard work, perhaps even on a par with the “work” involved in tripping out on hallucinogenic drugs. Ok I won't start that again...
As the afternoon wore on, we cycled from winery to winery treating out palates to everything Mendoza's vineyards had to throw at us. Some of the wines really were great, especially a Carmenere which felt like pouring silk into your mouth. However I still wasn't convinced I could tell the difference between a cheap and expensive wine. The only discernable difference I noticed was that the more expensive ones tended to be more complex and thus more difficult to describe without sounding like an idiot or a pretentious toff.

After around 5 wineries we decided that the expedition was beginning to lose its cultural tone and decided to call it a day. As well as hiring bikes, Mr Hugo also plies his customers with cheap wine when they return. As one might expect, our group which had expanded to accommodate several other travellers (including Alex who I'd met on the Inca Trail and trekked up EL Misti with) was in merry spirits on the bus back to Mendoza. We ended up partaking in an all-you-can-eat grilled meat affair (called asado (bbq) cooked on a parilla (grill)) at another hostel and I waved goodbye to Jack who was off north tomorrow. I would be travelling to my final destination of Buenos Aires. It had been a great day.
Steak, wine and physics
The next day was somewhat reminiscent of a very low budget version of “The Hangover” as I spent a large chunk of it locating a few things I'd managed to scatter in a variety of locations in Mendoza. My backpack, hat, sunglasses and a plastic bag full of clothes all had to be tracked down. Maybe next time I'll spit the wine out.

With that ordeal behind me I bid farewell to Mendoza and got on what would be my last overnight bus in South America. I won't bother calculating how many hours I've spent sitting on buses while I've been here but I think “a lot” is a pretty good summary.

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