14-15/1/2012 - Getting some perspective in Cartagena

I'd opted to get the 5am bus to Cartagena (the hostel I'd gotten in touch with told me to get there nice and early to have a chance of getting a bed) and was treated to another showing of “The Zookeeper” en route. Arriving at the hostel and dumping my stuff, me and a dutch guy, who'd also just arrived, headed to Cartagena's old town. Despite being tired and still somewhat ill, I couldn't help but be charmed by Cartagena. In several places I'd visited previously on my travels (notably Coro) the colonial architecture was present in dribs and drabs and was often in disrepair. Entering Cartagena's old town on the hand, really felt like walking into a perfectly preserved colonial time capsule, albeit with loads of tourists milling around and taking photos. After a preliminary wander around, we found a very expensive eatery right next to the main square which was showing Premier League football. I warned my dutch amigo against ordering food (I was in the right mood to rest my weary frame, have a beer and watch some football) but he went for the ludicrously overpriced fish anyway. Fortunately he was travelling to Taganga next so I made him promise to try the fish there; I didn't want him leaving Colombia disillusioned about the quality of fish here.

After his disappointing lunch we parted ways as he headed back to the hostel while I opted to stay and take in more of the town. I didn't really feel up to it but I decided to man up. I'd recently finished reading the book dad had bought me, “Travel in Dangerous Places” - a collection of dairy excerpts from explorers who'd undertaken some of the most difficult journeys (including Bingham's discovery of Machu Pichu and Scott's ill-fated expedition to the South Pole). Reading about the stuff these guys went through really put into perspective my own “adventures” and occasional sufferings. The 3 days of travellers diarrhoea I'd had in Venezuela? I'd read about explorers who had it for weeks. The “danger” from criminals and corrupt officials I faced by travelling South America? Some of the expeditions I read about were constantly under attack from angry natives or under threat from power hungry and distrustful sheiks. My complaints about the fatty and unhealthy diet I've encountered? Men from one expedition had to eat the leather off their boots to stay alive while others marched without food for 2 weeks. Perspective really is a powerful thing.

Oldest church in Cartagena with a Botero fat lady in front of it

My treacherous afternoon stroll around Cartagena saw me take in a couple of museums, try some delicious Colombian condensed milk based sweets and relax in the lovely plazas of the old town while sipping on a mango-orange-strawberry smoothie. What an adventurer I am.

In the evening I met the dutch guy again and, still feeling in an adventurous mood, decided to join him in getting a shave at a local barber – the kind where they use the cut-throat razor. I have to admit it wasn't a pleasant experience. I'm not sure if it's always supposed to hurt as much as it did but I am sure that the barber isn't supposed to leave a sizeable gash on your chin. At least he apologized. I sincerely thanked him for the mutilation.

Cartagena Castle

The next day, since I was leaving for Medellin (Colombia's second biggest city) that night, I crammed in as much Cartagena as I could. I visited the castle (Cartagena's old town is guarded by a hefty wall and castle which protected it from pirate attacks back in the day) but wasn't overly impressed. However, the visit made me question why in my 5 years at Edinburgh I'd never made the effort to visit castle or explore more of Edinburgh's rich history. Another resolution added to the list.

Painting in one of the museums I visited

In the afternoon I took what would undoubtedly be my last dip in the Caribbean for a long time. I dodged the McDonalds and Burger King in the neighbourhood in favour of some local fare and before I knew it, it was time pack up and head to the bus station. I shared a cab from the hostel with 2 Argentinian girls who were also heading to Medellin and after receiving a pat down from the police in the terminal we headed off on our 14 hour bus journey.