Wednesday, 30 November 2011

20/11/2011 - Roraima Day 4 – To the edge and back


Waking early, we left our stuff at the hotel (we would return the same way and pick it up later) and headed for the northern-most point on Roraima – La Proa. We were still walking through cloud, but once in a while the sun would shine through and we'd get a great view of the rocky landscape, stretching out in every direction. Walking without our bags we struck a lively pace which suited both me and Vova fine. Omar, our indigenous guide, probably thought it was snail pace. Either way we quickly passed the Triple-Point into Brazil and arrived at a sunken lake, one of the sights on the way to La Proa. Vova managed to get some photos before the cloud rolled in after which we walked down into a little valley, the floor of which was littered with crystals. At this point, something one of the researchers for the film “Up” from Pixar Studios had said came back to me. It was something like “The things we saw on Roraima were so crazy that in the film, we had to tone some of them down just to make it believable”.

After another bit of hefty hiking we reached la Proa. Unsurprisingly it was cloudy and we weren't rewarded with a picture-perfect view of Brazil, but peering over the edge of the cliff into a vast cloudy nothingness with no sense of how high up we were was an enchanting experience nonetheless.

The rest of the day we spent retracing our steps back to our very first hotel which we reached with a few hours of daylight to spare. After we'd set up camp I still had some strength left in my legs and was about to badger Omar to take us for more exploration. Then cloud cleared, opening up the sky right in front of us and we were treated to a delicious view of miles and miles of rolling hills of the Gran Sabana below. My drab meal of bread, sardines and mayonnaise tasted delicious and I don't think I've ever eaten in a more spectacular setting. Vova, crazy Russian that he is, had already run out of food by this point and assured me that he would be fine without. “My body will adapt” he told me. Fortunately Omar went and managed to wrangle him some cooked pasta and half a loaf of bread from some other guides nearby. We went to bed exhausted but happy – we'd done more or less 2 days hiking in 1 day and had seen a great deal of this crazy landscape.

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